Dior has made a habit of debuting new beauty products backstage at their runway shows. Last season it was their Pump’N’Volume Mascara (which was used today for their Spring 2018 show, but more on that in a sec). And this season, it’s a brand spankin’ new foundation formula — Dior Forever Undercover — and it promises to be really freakin’ good.
Makeup artist Peter Philips (who is Dior Makeup’s creative director), not only helped develop Forever Undercover, but he also used it to create the look for the Spring 2018 show, which featured spidery-lashes inspired by Niki de Saint Phalle, a French artist from the 1960s. “Because of the ’60s reference, we decided to put the focus on the lashes,” said Philips. After evening out the models’ complexions with the Forever Undercover foundation, Philips lined the inner rims of the eyes with black pencil and went to work on loading up the lashes until they were “fat and clumpy.” To do that, he started by curling the lashes and coating them with a layer of Diorshow Maximizer 3D, the brand’s volumizing lash primer. Then he loaded up the lashes with lots and lots of Pump’N’Volume Mascara — wiggling the wand right at the roots, combing it through the lashes, and even using the tip of the wand to paint it onto the individual lashes so they fattened up and clumped together. “I’m being very messy because I really need to get into the roots of the lashes,” said Philips, not caring if he got mascara all over the lids when applying it. “When you do clumpy lashes like this, it’s important you get the roots because the weight of all the mascara will cause the lashes to fall. If the roots are covered in mascara, they act like a support to keep the rest of the lashes from falling.”
His system went as follows: add a coat of mascara, comb through the lashes with a spoolie or metal lash comb, wait a few seconds for the mascara to start to dry, then add another coat. After doing this anywhere from three to five times, he then cleaned up the skin with a cotton bud soaked in makeup remover. “It’s much faster and more efficient if you make a mess and then clean it up after, because if you apply the mascara too perfectly and precisely, you’ll never get that fat effect that we want.”
But back to the new foundation. The formula, according to Philips (who placed a drop on the back of my hand and let me feel it), is very light and very natural. “The biggest difference between Forever Undercover and the classic Diorskin Forever foundation is that the new formula isn’t as matte — it feels and looks fresher and it’s much more buildable,” said Philips. You also have to shake this one before using it. “Forever Undercover is very long-lasting but without being heavy or thick, and it’s very lightweight.” And a little goes a long way with this thin-yet-full coverage liquid formula. That tiny drop Philips squeezed out nearly covered up the entire back of my hand in pigment. And speaking of pigment, this new foundation has the largest shade range of any Dior base product, with a whopping 29 different hues.
The packaging is also quite a departure for Dior. Instead of a traditional glass bottle, Philips went with a smaller, plastic one that has a tapered tip that allows you to squeeze out the tiniest amount. It’s very reminiscent of the bottle for Chanel Vita Lumière Aqua, a product that Philips also helped created.
Philips shared some more inside product scoop with me while I was speaking to him. “The Star foundation is going to disappear, and the Forever line will become a bigger franchise, starting with Forever Undercover in January 2018. We also have our Backstage Pro line that is also coming out soon.” He then teased four new Lip Glow shades (see below) and something I’m very excited about that he didn’t have on display backstage: a matte version of the Lip Glow that is sure to be lazy girl’s makeup dream.
More product news from the Spring 2018 shows:
- Stila Previews Its New Shimmer & Glow Liquid Eye Shadow at NYFW
- M.A.C.’s Waterweight Foundation Is Coming in a Concealer Version Now
- Here Are Four Red Lipsticks to Fall In Love With, Straight From Dolce & Gabbana’s Spring 2018 Show
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